I bought a used wine cooler a while back. It worked great. It holds 12 bottles and uses a peltier cooler rather than a vapor-compression cooler. This makes it less efficient, but it is quiet and relatively simple for an electronics guy like me to understand. I kept some wine cool in it.
Then, one day, I grabbed a bottle and noticed it wasn’t cool. My wine cooler was no longer cooling. So, I took off the back cover.
![](https://somethingnew.ca/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/image-25.png)
Why, oh, why would someone use 5 #2 Robertson screws and 7 #1 Robertsons? They’re all holding the same two pieces of sheet metal together. There is literally no good reason.
![](https://somethingnew.ca/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/image-26.png)
And there it is. 120V AC goes in the right-hand side of the board. That likely gets converted to 12VDC to drive the fans and the peltier cooler. There’s a thermistor somewhere inside the cooler and, I suspect, the LM358 is being used to condition the signal from that thermistor to turn the cooler on and off.
![](https://somethingnew.ca/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/image-27-1024x512.png)
There was nothing obviously wrong on either side of the board. There is a fuse soldered on the board. I tested it with my multimeter and it was, indeed, open.
![](https://somethingnew.ca/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/image-28-1024x514.png)
I didn’t have another 2.5A leaded fuse, so I jumpered the fuse on the PCB and installed an inline fuse holder on the incoming AC line.
![](https://somethingnew.ca/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/image-29.png)
![](https://somethingnew.ca/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/image-30.png)
Sadly, the new fuse blew immediately when I plugged the cooler back in.
![](https://somethingnew.ca/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/image-31-1024x457.png)
I pulled the board back out and will have to take a closer look at it another day.
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